FoodZealot.com

I'm Not Much of a Baker.

2010-03-08T06:09:08Z

I was thinking about the posts I've made here and was reminded that I haven't posted enough pictures in general. Additionally, I talk about cooking and such, but haven't really shown food that I have made. So here's something to start with. It's not something I would normally make - it was an assignment in class the other week.

Plum Tart with Chambord Creme de Beurre Noisette.

The crust is pate brisee, a classic French pie or tart dough. This dough is quite forgiving - easy to patch or re-roll. No greasing or blind baking is needed in this case. I worked in a bakery, but I didn't make the baked goods, so this was still outside my comfort zone. General pastry rules apply: keep the butter in visible bits or pieces, and handle the dough as little as possible to prevent gluten formation and melting/blending of the butter into the dough.

Plums from Chile - they weren't the best, but I love plums and they were the most interesting of the fruits available. Also, everyone else made pears, so I wanted to switch it up a little.

It was my first time making creme de beurre noisette, which is a filling used by bakers consisting of eggs, flour, brown butter, and sugar. When it's baked, it reminds me of baked frangipane, but it's not made with nuts. The brown butter brings a nutty flavor, so that's probably what made me think of it. I flavored this one with Chambord, which is a cassis (black currant) liqeur. It's one of those components that is actually better to eat before it gets baked, like cookie dough or pastry cream. I could eat a bowl of it like pudding! I think next time I would put a layer of the filling across the bottom of the tart, use a tiny bit less fruit, and make the crust a bit thinner. Plum and Chambord is a good combination. I would just increase the proportion of creme de beurre noisette by any means necessary.

I'd definitely make this again.

Prong #1 - Catering

2010-02-28T07:01:04Z

It's a short month, but I'm gonna get two posts in, dang it.

The first prong of the new plan of attack is I'm working for a caterer. I'm learning the catering business because I think my skills and temperament may be better suited to that than restaurants. It's still cooking, it's still a solid days work (when there are catering gigs), but it's more project oriented in approach, organization, and timeline. Quite a bit different than a restaurant, where they goal is to be ready for anything on the menu, and make it 75 times, exactly right and exactly the same, every night. Catering is more like make it exactly right ONCE, for 75 people.

There's an interesting stigma amongst restaurant line cooks that cooks that can't hack the restaurant kitchen do catering. But catering usually is better money, shorter hours, more creativity, and less wear and tear on the body and soul.

I'll take it!

The only downside so far is that it's usually not as steady as a restaurant gig. But I'm cutting down on my monthly overhead, so that should take a little of the pressure off during the occasional slow week. And I definitely can use a little more flexibility in my schedule than when I was working 75-80 hours a week at the restaurant.

So far, so good. Today we had a good chat about how to proceed from here. We're going to push ahead with plans to keep us busy during the gaps. Gotta keep bringing the pain.

What A Difference A Year Makes...

2010-02-21T03:34:20Z

It's been too long. Much has happened since my last post. As it turns out, Las Vegas wasn't for me. Or at least for the time being. I didn't much enjoy the corporate/casino work situation. I actually was enjoying living in LV - it snowed while I was there, and I drove through the Asiatown twice a day. I still hadn't found a Mexican restaurant that I loved, but new opportunities came calling.

I moved back to LA almost exactly a year ago. I served as a sous chef at a new cafe and bakery, which was one of the most engrossing, demanding, and challenging things I've ever done. I worked hard, did the best I could, and learned a ton. We were fortunate to be very busy, even during hard times for most restaurants. Most of the time, it was just a race to keep up with all the food we were selling. I had a great team of cooks, we figured out a lot of things as they were happening, and the guests seemed to enjoy it. Good times.

At one point, it seemed like I had found a home where I could be for a long time - indefinitely, even. There were some areas of difference of opinion, difference of style, and difference of priorities. At first, it seemed like those differences could be complementary. Ultimately, I decided, it wasn't the right fit for me. I wish them continued success and every happiness.

I spent most of January sitting in my bedroom thinking about all the things I coulda/woulda/shoulda done, but more importantly, all the things I wanna/hafta/will do next.

One of those things is writing more regularly. Perhaps the cliche'd blogger resolution. But there's a multi-pronged plan in the works. More on that as it develops. Thanks for reading.

May I Suggest...

2009-02-03T03:34:12Z

It's pledge time at KCRW, and here's a message from Evan Kleinman. Both she and the show are a great source of information for all things food, definitely worthy of any support you can offer.

~Tad

Today is My Friday

2009-02-01T20:03:00Z

In the restaurant business, it's not always possible for employees to have two days off in a row on a regular basis. Lots of restaurants are closed one day per week, like Monday, so everyone has that day off and another. The people that get Sunday and Monday off, or Monday and Tuesday off have the best schedule, so those are often given to the people with the most senority. Or it may rotate through the staff so everyone gets two days off once in a while.

But in casino restaurants, thanks to unions and big staff, it's expected and required for all employees to get two consecutive days off. Because everyone gets a true "weekend," there's a peculiar turn of phrase, "Today is my Friday" (meaning it's the end of my workweek) or "Today is my Monday" (meaning it's the beginning of my workweek). I often overhear it in the hallway and employee dining areas, in various accents. No matter what the person's native tongue, these specific phrases are what's used to communicate the concept of a personal weekend.

Happy Holidays from LV

2008-12-26T03:29:49Z

I'm still getting settled, but so far, so good. Happy Holidays, and a healthy and prosperous new year to you and yours.

Learning or Earning

2008-12-18T18:35:18Z

Now that it's approaching the end of '08, I've been thinking about one of my mottos for the year: Learning or Earning. By that I meant, I knew I wasn't happy, I needed to force myself to change, and the simple test would be I would have to either be learning new things and growing as a cook, or making enough money to make it worthwhile. At my previous job, while there were some great aspects to it, and great people to work with, it wasn't really meeting either standard. I felt a little stagnant and underappreciated.

It's funny how life works. A new opportunity came up, and although wasn't looking for such a drastic change, it seemed to meet both sides of the test. I'm learning a lot, in a new environment, with a new corporate culture, surrounded by new people, and also earning a fair wage with full benefits.

Granted, not all aspects of my new situation are as perfect as I'd like them to be. There are still the daily annoyances, adjustments, and compromises. But between the newness of it all, the work itself, and the upward trend, it seems like the right choice.

Learning or Earning. Or maybe both!!

Current Challenges 1

2008-12-14T08:46:30Z

Opening a new restaurant.

Hard water, and consequently, softened water.

Low humidity, and consequently, dry skin and spontaneous nosebleeds.

Finding a new local pub.

Finding a new late night taco joint or taco truck.

Elsewise, so far, so good.

What Happens in Vegas...

2008-11-15T02:16:00Z

A few months ago, had someone asked me if I would move to Las Vegas, I probably would have said, "I wouldn't bet on it." I'd already been looking for a new work situation, I was ready for a change, but I was waiting to find the right thing. I would have considered moving, but I hadn't seriously looked anywhere outside of Los Angeles.

But a lot can happen in a couple of months. A friend of mine, with whom I have done lots of catering and teaching, was offered a gig at a plush new hotel on the Strip in Las Vegas. I want to get more experience with opening new restaurants, and in a variety of circumstances. After getting over some hesitations, I am officially bound for Las Vegas.

Although I have a few concerns, it's an amazing situation with lots of resources, lots of upside, good people involved, and sky's the limit potential. Beyond our restaurant, Las Vegas has representation from the best chefs in the world, and there is an audience to support the finest of fine dining - all the way down to $4.99 prime rib. I'll have lots of opportunity to eat and work in some excellent restaurants. There's a lively ethnic food scene as well, with ready access to international ingredients. Although I'll miss being near the ocean, there's apparently lots of recreating do in the foothills surrounding Las Vegas, Lake Mead, etc. For me personally, another draw is the very real possibility of buying a home or a condo, which is completely out of reach in the LA area.

It's so ON!! I've been imagining that clap and wave of empty hands that dealers do in Las Vegas, always accompanied by, "Good Luck."

As per usual, I won't speak about specifics, but I'll continue to post about my experience in Sin City and as a cook. I reserve the right to edit or delete any post or comments that may be too identifiable.

A New Day in America

2008-11-05T16:11:47Z

Besides being the Godfather of Soul, Mr. Dynamite, and the Hardest Working Man in Show Business, people forget that James Brown was as much of a social/political commentator as Chuck D or Bob Dylan or Bob Marley. JB had it right a long time ago... here are some lyrics from his 1974 song, Funky President.

[...]

People, people
We got to get over,
Before we go under
People, people
We got to get over,
Before we go under

Hey, country
Didn't say what you meant
Just changed
Brand new funky President

Stock market going up
Jobs going down
And ain't no funking
Jobs to be found

Taxes keep going up
I changed from a glass
Now I drink out of a paper cup
It's getting bad

People, people
We got to get over
Before we go under

Listen to me
Let's get together and raise
Let's get together
And get some land

Raise our food like the man
Save our money like the Mob
Put up a fight down on the job

[...]

Hey, give yourself a
Chance to come through
Tell yourself, I can
Do what you can do

People, people
People, people
Hey, people, people
Don't you see what's going on

People, people
We got to get together
Get on the good foot
Change it, yeah

Got to get together
And get some land
Raise our food just like the man
Hey, hey, hey, hey, hey

I got to say it again
We got to get together
And buy some land
Raise our food just like the man
Save our money, do like the Mob
Put up your fight right on the job

We gotta get over
Before we go under
Time's getting short, Lord

Country, do you know
Just what I meant
We just changed, we got
A brand new funky President

I need to be the Mayor
So I could change

Some things around here
I need to be the Governor
I need to be the Governor

Or the President!

Best Quote I've Heard in a While

2008-07-18T17:12:38Z

We were talking about the process of learning from the chef above you, and how some people get chef gigs at a really young age, and they just haven't had enough experience or just time to figure out how flavors work. Or in some cases, they may know a lot, but they might not make good choices about food. One of my co-workers explaining why he left his last job:

"My last chef had a palate where he kinda liked things that tasted like vomit. Really. Kinda acid-ey, and bitter at the same time - like vomit. Sometimes he would make a sauce, and I thought it tasted like vomit. I had to get out of there."

Under $4.50!

2008-07-16T08:28:12Z

Today, I paid $4.38 per gallon for gasoline, and I felt relieved. Just a few months ago, it was $3.79/gallon and it seemed like an outrage. It's the new f_____ up normal. Oil companies act like they're just reacting to market forces, but they're making record profits. If there's anything that Enron taught us, it's that any market can be manipulated, and people will do anything to line their own pockets. Unfortunately, big business is full of bastards.

They broke through the psychological $4.00 barrier, and it won't be long before they see if $5.00 will fly. At least it serves as motivation toward alternative energy.

By the way, the best strategy for saving money in this situation is to fill your tank when you think that prices will be rising (hoarding at the lower price), and filling only a partial tank if you think the price will be falling (giving prices time to fall, and buying it as it falls).

Favorites From My Library

2008-06-17T19:42:21Z

I have a problem. I collect cookbooks and I can't stop! At present, it's probably upwards of 350 cookbooks. I'm going to begin a list some of my favorites, with links to Amazon. If you happen to decide to buy them through these links, I'll get a little Amazon credit, and you can be my enabler. Thanks!!

For Everyone:

This is the classic American cookbook. There's actually a bit of drama surrounding this book. In the 90's, it was revised and expanded to include all sorts of new cuisines, to mirror what was happening in American food. The family of the original authors apparently didn't like the new expansion, and later took editing control back. But this is the version I have, and I love it. The recipes are structured in a sequential way, which I think is brilliant, since most cooking is process oriented.

Another great all around cookbook, written by David Rosengarten. He was one of the original Food Network hosts, who would do extensive reseach on the particular dish at hand. I also like this book because it discusses the aesthetics behind the recipes and the choices.

Although there is science in it, a very readable and usable reference to help anyone figure out why a recipe isn't working.

This is a helpful book about the creative process - in whatever medium you choose - not just painters and novelists and musicians. I find it so valuable that I've probably given it away to over 25 people over the years. HIghly recommended.

For Professional Cooks:

As Bourdain says, the argument ender. Although rooted in European food, contains at least simple entries to just about any ingredient as well.

For all the lip service that cooks and chefs pay to the importance of sharp knives, a surprisingly large proportion don't REALLY understand their knives or the sharpening process. As far as I'm concerned, this book should be required reading for every culinary student and every professional cook.

For me, this is a timeless book, with elegant ideas taken to the nth degree. I'd say one of the most influential on me, even though his style is so different.

This is the best book I've found so far on Spanish used in kitchens and restaurants. Besides food words, there's phrases for interviewing, giving instructions, and other situations that might come up if you were a chef, manager, or owner of a restaurant.

If nothing else, read the first few chapters, which offer an eloquent rebuttal to vegetarianism, and discusses the politics of meat in general.

Although this is a new book, it's become one of my instant favorites. He has a powerful mix of traditional technique, global perspective, and originality that results in some dynamic and wonderful food.

Although there are a ton of books about French techniques, this is the daddy. Yes, you've probably seen a lot of it on TV already, but this is the source.

Dos Años

2008-06-13T18:30:36Z

It's just past the two year anniversary of when I originally posted An Unabridged Glossary of Mexican Slang for Cooks. In that time, I've moved on to a different restaurant, but I've continued to add words and correct their definitions as they've come up. And I'll continue to do so.

Incidentally, the best book I've found for proper kitchen and restaurant Spanish is Stainless Steel Translations...English to Spanish for Restaurants and Commercial Kitchens. The pronouciation guide is pretty gringo, so use a little imagination to sound more authentic. Nevertheless, I highly recommend it.

The original caveat still applies: "A lot of of it is crude and rude, locker room-type language, so if you are offended by that sort of thing, don't read further. If I have any of the definitions or spellings wrong, please feel free to comment and correct me."

An Unabridged Glossary of Mexican Slang for Cooks

A Word About Links

2008-05-03T06:07:50Z

I like websites where if the discussion is about a thing, there is a hyperlink to a source for that thing, or more information about that thing. To me, that is one of the best aspects about the web. So for your benefit, dear readers, I will now become a link maniac, and try to link just about anything and everything that may or may not make good sense.

As a side benefit to me, I may be able to help out someone else who is peddling their widgets. But far from being completely benevolent, I do have my own interests in mind. I want more books. More gadgets. More stuff.

I think it is unlikely to turn into any significant amount of revenue. But books are books.

Just so everything is on the table and I can cling to a bit of street cred, I am letting y'all know that, where possible, I will be linking things to Amazon, where I have become an associate, and I get a small vig for directing traffic there. After that, I will try to link to a retailer or source that I have used myself. After that, I may or may not link to a source that I have not used.

Where I recommend things, I will try to give an idea of how strong of an endorsement it is, and some sort of context for the recommendation.

I certainly hope that these sources will prove to be reliable and satisfactory for you as well, but let the buyer beware. Your mileage may vary.